Camino Portuguese Information
Aside from knowing what the Camino is, what its
history is, what St. James is all about, and the importance of Credentials, Compostela,
and shells there are a few other essentials that most people ask about prior to
trekking out onto their first Camino. Common
concerns naturally include: Where do I sleep?
Where do I eat? How easy or hard
is it to find my way along any of the Routes?
Each of these are great questions and one which we all
ask. They also reflect the natural concerns
about trekking on the Camino given that it is neither your typical holiday nor
a traditional thru-hike experience.
Sleeping on the Camino Portuguese
Throughout France, Spain and Portugal (as well as the
other nations along The Way), there are a variety of pilgrim accommodations
which can be engaged.
In Spain along the
Camino Frances, pilgrims can stay in
Albergues,
in France you can stay in
Gites, and
in Portugal hikers can rest in
Abrigaos.
Each are essentially the same – a place to
sleep, and stay for the evening with fellow travellers on the Camino.
However, while many pilgrims strive to stay
in pilgrim accommodations, they are by no means limited to these
establishments.
Pilgrims can stay in
churches, cathedrals, fire halls, monasteries, cloisters, hostels, Pensions,
and hotels.
Each type of establishment
has its own range of amenities, offers different options with regards to beds
and rooms (ranging from dormitories which have dozens of people to a private
room), offers varying options for dinners and breakfasts in the morning and
costs a different amount (donative vs basic accommodations vs luxury privacy).
Most offer showers, many offer sinks and
lines to clean your laundry, some offer kitchens and a few I have seen even
have a masseuse.
In most cases it
depends on your budget and wants.
For us
trekking on the
Camino Frances in 2016 we stayed in a number of donative
albergues which tend to be clean, have many amenities
but are more basic.
In contrast we have also stayed in several
hostels which had private rooms, outdoor pools, and electronic laundry
facilities.
Accommodations – especially
along the Camino Frances – are generally frequent though during the busy
seasons, it can be harder to find a bunk or room, leaving you in the famed
‘race for the bed’ each day.
Remember regardless of whether you camp, stay in a
church, rest in an albergue, or visit a hotel you are required to get your
Credential stamped daily to receive your Compostela in Santiago.
Eating on the Camino Portuguese
The next concern for every pilgrim – and every person
– is eating. Simply put, in terms of
eating, Europe is the place to be! In
France the wine, cheese, vegetables, Aligot, Aubrac sausages and chocolate are
beyond description! While in Spain the
wine, Cafe con Leche, Bocadillo con Queso, Churros, Paella, Churros, seafood
were all amazing! In short there is an
amazing array of food types, food options, and new things to try on your trek. However like sleeping and accommodations, the
range of options changes with your budget.
For many pilgrims the Pilgrim Menu or Menu of the Day offered at the
Albergue is the most affordable and easiest to go with. For others, willing to explore the beautiful
public squares and bars the range of options increases along with the cost.
For us, in Spain our day began by heading out early
and finding an open bar to get a warm Cafe con Leche and Croissant. In France, we similarly began our mornings
with our Cafe Americano and Chocolate Croissant (no judging until you sleep
beside a French Bakery all night). On
both treks, we also traditionally concluded each day’s trek with a cold pint of
beer which we enjoyed while writing our journals. Yet in all of these cases, the coffee,
croissants, afternoon pastries, and evening pints where luxuries which added to
the costs. Regardless, throughout France, Spain, and Portugal there are an
available range of options to eat aside from at your nightly accommodations.
Staying at the albergue or gite in the evening to eat
– rather than trekking through town - offers you the companionship of the other
pilgrims. By contrast, those willing to
strike out onto the streets, grants a glimpse into the culture and society of
the communities you trek through. Both
options have their advantages and offer different experiences.
I should also note that even though one of us is
vegetarian there were few difficulties in Spain or France in locating
meals. Typically hosts provide such a
large round of options you merely need to pass by the main serving and have more
salad or side dishes. Admittedly many
hosts – if they know in advance, will strive to provide hikers with a
vegetarian option. As such being a
vegetarian did not hamper me being able to get out, locate a range of food
options and enjoy the culinary aspects of our Caminos.
Beyond all of this, in the mornings make sure you have
filled your water bottle or bottles, ensure that you refill them en route –
usually from the public fountains after making sure the water is safe to drink
(potable).
Waymarking and
Trail Makers
The final concern most people planning to undertake a
Camino ask is about the waymarking. How will I know which way to go? Is it hard to know the direction I am
supposed to follow?
From our experiences on the Camino Frances, I can
whole heartedly assure you that locating and following The Way is not
difficult (on most developed routes). From St. Jean-Pied-de-Port
across Spain the route is continually marked by blue and yellow shells as well
as yellow arrows. In fact, but of the
route can easily be considered to be over marked to the point where one feels
that they are following a constant yellow line across Spain.
In France, while part of the Camino is marked with the
traditional yellow arrows and shells, the vast majority of it requires an
understanding of the GR system of trail marking. While this system is slightly different than
many North American hikers or Camino Frances pilgrims may be used to, it is
nonetheless very easy to learn and follow.
In addition to the generally clear and abundant trail
markers along The Way, there are a number of invaluable guide books for each
Camino route and typically individuals in any community on the pathway is kind
enough to help you along. From our
experiences, the people in both Spain and France were always incredibly
hospitable and kind.
It is our understanding, from what we have read and heard of the
Camino Portuguese, that the route is also generally well marked throughout the
country – though perhaps not as excessively as the Camino Frances in Spain.
We have been told that from Lisbon to Santarem, the
route is marked with the traditional yellow arrows of the Camino Frances as
well as the blue arrows of the Camino Fatima. There are purportedly less
markers and arrows than in Spain, but not so few that locating and following
them is difficult. According to online
resources and the John Brierley guide, this section has fewer pilgrims en route
to Santiago but more pilgrims heading towards Fatima. Regardless, the Portuguese people are reputed
to be friendly, talkative and willing to help pilgrims and this portion is not
considered overly difficult. After Porto
and on through to Santiago, the route is noted as being well marked with the
traditional yellow arrows, shells, and trail markers with more frequency and
increasing amounts of infrastructure to aid pilgrims.
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